Condiments & compliments

Saturday 2 June 2012

By the 70’s, they had become as much a cliché start to a meal as grapefruit

Jane Grigson

condimentsandcompliments: "Marinetti & his friends proceeded to divert themselves & outrage the public with the invention & publication of preposterous new dishes. Most of them were founded by the shock principle of combining unsuitable & exotic ingredients (mortadella with nougat, pineapple with sardines, cooked salame immersed in a bath of hot black coffee flavoured with eau-de-Cologne, an aphrodisiac drink composed of pineapple juice, eggs, cocoa, cavier, almond paste, red pepper, nutmeg, cloves, & Strega). Meals were to be eaten to the accompaniment of perfumes (warmed so the bald head should not suffer from the cold), to be sprayed over the diners, who, fork in the right hand, would stroke meanwhile with the left some suitable substance - velvet, silk, or emery paper". Elizabeth David

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